Pratumnak Hill

In Pattaya, I’ve only ever lived on Pratumnak — two years altogether — so I’ll start with it. And I might be biased, because I consider this part of the city the best.

First, the location. Pratumnak sits almost exactly in the center of Pattaya. The drive to Naklua in the far north and to Na Jomtien in the far south takes about the same amount of time. On the west–east axis, it falls outside the center, of course, since it’s on the coast, but roads run from it toward Sukhumvit.

Since I’ve already admitted to being biased about Pratumnak, I’ll continue. I’d call this district the local Beverly Hills. There are condominiums of different levels here — from simple to luxurious — and villas. Again, varied: small ones for a holiday, houses hidden behind fences and greenery in local style, and truly luxurious ones. This may be due to the presence of a royal residence here, which naturally creates a draw for a particular audience, the infrastructure, and a corresponding level of security.

From what I’ve seen, Pratumnak is home mostly to Russians, Germans, Scandinavians, and French, with some Americans as well. Thanks to this national diversity, you’ll find purely Italian, French, and Russian restaurants with genuinely authentic cuisine from those countries.

Pratumnak is a very quiet and calm district, with the exception, perhaps, of Soi 5, where a lot of bars have opened in the past year. But even they fully comply with the noise ordinance, and I’ve never once heard loud music after 11 p.m.

There’s also a promenade and a park here, both very valuable for Pattaya. They’re valuable because Thai towns in general aren’t built for pedestrians, and if you, like me, enjoy walking or racking up steps, this is worth paying attention to. The promenade along Dongtan Beach flows into the Jomtien Beach promenade and continues all the way to the southern end of Pattaya — for those who like to walk a lot and aren’t afraid of the heat. The park on the hill, with changes in elevation, has pull-up bars and regulars working out, for those who like sport, running, or walking — or simply a change of scenery. I loved walking the promenade in the mornings, around 7 a.m., when the only people around are equally crazy walkers and runners. And the park is lovely in the evening after sunset — tourists never wander in there, unlike on the promenade.

Cosy Beach

If Pratumnak is a quiet district in Pattaya, then Cosy Beach is a quiet district within Pratumnak. This is the part of Pratumnak I love especially. It’s a dead-end area, and random people don’t wander in. There are almost no tourists or sights here. What it does have is a scenic beach, a yacht club, and good condominiums with infinity pools and sunset views.

Cosy Beach suits long-term living well because of its mood. But for a holiday, it would be inconvenient — the choice of restaurants is small, there’s no entertainment, and tuk-tuks rarely show up. Essentially, for almost anything you need to leave the area, which isn’t very convenient on holiday.

North

I once happened to stay at two small hotels in Naklua. And although the hotels were quite nice, the district itself didn’t leave much of an impression on me. It’s quiet, but more geared toward locals than foreigners. I like the rhythm of Thai life, but I’d rather experience it on an island. In Pattaya, I still lean toward the comforts of civilization.

I was also put off by the number of stray dogs in Naklua — that’s exactly where I experienced 3 or 4 attacks. That may be exactly what left an unpleasant impression of the district.

I can’t say anything particularly bad or particularly good about Naklua. Just an ordinary district. And if you’re considering the north, it might be worth a look. Though I’d personally prefer Wongamat.

It’s also in the north, but a bit closer to the center. It’s completely quiet and family-oriented. There are a few large resorts there, though, which can add a touch of inconvenience for long-term stays. But for a holiday it’s very good — a nice beach, a large hotel, a calm atmosphere.

Compared to Pratumnak, it wins on quietness — I didn’t come across a single bar on Wongamat. But it loses out in terms of walking options and the choice of great, delicious restaurants. Again, that’s a subjective opinion. Wongamat has plenty of hotel restaurants and simply stylish spots, but their cooking objectively falls short of a small restaurant with an Italian or French chef on Pratumnak. Though it’s worth noting I had far more opportunities to search out such restaurants on Pratumnak, and maybe I simply haven’t found a truly great place on Wongamat yet.

Wongamat ranks second in my personal ranking of districts, after Pratumnak.

Center

This district misleads a lot of people — plenty of chain hotels, close to downtown, the beach within walking distance. That’s Beach Road I’m describing. And it might be ideal, if not for the fly in the ointment: Walking Street, one of the seediest streets in the world.

If your goal is to party, to go to bars and clubs, then… I’d of course suggest you reconsider your lifestyle… but generally speaking, Beach Road is worth considering.

This is also where Pattaya’s two biggest shopping malls are located: Central Festival and Terminal 21. Even if you don’t live in this district, Terminal 21 is worth a visit. It’s inspired by travel and airports — inside the mall are streets themed after different countries around the world, plus plenty of shops, cafés, restaurants, sculptures, and photo spots. And although my journal is authorial and aims for a certain intellectual standard, I have to mention the restrooms — they’re styled after different countries and events, like Formula 1, and each one is unique.

Along the long stretch of sand at Pattaya Beach, different events take place nearly every weekend. From here you can also take a boat to a floating restaurant, or paraglide over the sea. And ferries and boats to Koh Larn leave from Bali Hai Pier.

If you live in the Beach Road area, your life will definitely be full of events — though what color they’ll be painted, you can only find out in practice.

South

South of Pratumnak Hill lie Jomtien and Na Jomtien. The first is more touristy; the second is relatively small and quiet.

I’d say this is the most relaxed part of Pattaya — people rest here, exercise, walk the long promenade, sunbathe, swim, eat at local markets and various cafés with sea and sunset views. And simply live.

Jomtien is a good middle ground. It’s cheaper than Pratumnak or Wongamat. There’s entertainment, but not excessive, unlike Walking Street. There are tourists, but they’re unobtrusive. Modern high-rise condominiums are being built here now, though not many yet. And tuk-tuks constantly run through — if you live within the district, you can get by without renting transport.

Na Jomtien already carries a hint of the premium feel of Pratumnak or Wongamat. Hotels here are pricier, and the condominiums feel somewhat more upscale, though in reality they’re much the same as anywhere else. That said, rental prices are lower than in Pratumnak or Wongamat, due to the distance.

That distance also affects the lifestyle. Na Jomtien isn’t rich in infrastructure, so you’ll need to leave the area often. And that’s where the difficulty lies — the ride to the center takes about 30 minutes by bike, while by car you could be stuck in traffic for over an hour.

The Rest of Pattaya

The farther from the sea, the less infrastructure there is aimed at foreigners, and the more local the streets become. Past Sukhumvit, it’s entirely local. Unless your goal is a bit of asceticism, I wouldn’t recommend settling in this part of Pattaya.

But it’s worth exploring, because there are some very interesting spots. For example, a café with vintage cars on display inside. Or simply very good restaurants serving local cuisine. There are also tennis courts, if you play — worth a visit.

The one exception for living past Sukhumvit is if you’ve decided to live in a villa in one of the housing estates. There are some fairly premium places there. Though you should be ready to travel to more touristy areas often, since the infrastructure is, again, geared toward locals. And this part of the city definitely isn’t worth considering if you’re coming on holiday.

If this is your first time in Pattaya and you want to live there for an extended period, give yourself time to scout the districts before deciding where you want to live.